INTRODUCTORY BACKGROUND FOR LIFE CYCLE ASSESSMENT
(LCA) OF PURE SILK FABRIC
Silvia Mara Bortoloto Damasceno Barcelos
State
University of Maringá (UEM) - Brazil
E-mail:
silviabortoloto@hotmail.com
Leila
Mendes Luz
Federal University of Technology - Paraná (UTFPR) -
Brazil
E-mail:
leila.mendesdaluz@gmail.com
Ronaldo
Salvador Vasques
State University of Maringá (UEM) - Brazil
E-mail: rsvasques@uem.br
Cassiano Moro Piekarski
Federal University of Technology - Paraná (UTFPR) -
Brazil
E-mail:
cassianopiekarski@gmail.com
Antonio
Carlos Francisco
Federal University of Technology - Paraná (UTFPR) -
Brazil
E-mail: acfrancisco@utfpr.edu.br
Submission: 08/04/2013
Accept: 19/04/2013
ABSTRACT:
The main goal of this study is to provide an
introductory background to development of the Life Cycle Assessment studies of pure silk fabric. There are not studies
available on the life cycle of pure silk fabric. In this sense, was developed a
scenario model for LCA application, following the methodology established by
the Standard BNR ISO 14040:2009, which establishes principles and framework for
an LCA study. It was considered one of the first steps in ISO, being the
definition of the purpose and scope. The limits considered for the system had
as a starting point the wiring step within the company, and as a final limit
the stage of the finishing of the fabric, where you get the finished product.
The information used in this study was collected directly from the company
entitled 'Fio de Seda', a Brazilian industry. In order to construct the
scenario proposed, was used the software
Umberto®
5.6 v. Acad and through it, it was possible to generate the scenario model for
the production of the silk fabric. Based on this scenario, the accomplishment
of the later stages is possible, as outlined in ISO 14040, thus obtaining the
inventory of the LCA for the pure silk fabric, as well as its life cycle
inventory assessment.
Keywords: Life Cycle Assessment (LCA); Silk fabric; Silkworm; Umberto software.
1
INTRODUCTION
The silk
fabric (from the Latin Sericum and subsequently seta) is an animal-natured
textile fiber, obtained by various cocoons that industry transforms into a
continuous filament for use, being a decisive economic, social and cultural
factor among civilizations since ancient times.
Being
originally from China and discovered by the Chinese empress Xiling Shi around
2500-620 BC, its history is told by many thinkers concerned with this theme,
among them the journalist Dinah Pezzolo de Bueno (2008), who comments: the
Chinese Empress Xiling Shi, while having tea in her garden, sitting under a
mulberry tree, realized that an oval-shaped cocoon fell into her cup. Due to
the hot tea, a long strand of silk was loosened. It was discovered then that
the cocoon could be unwound, resulting in a fine filament being capable of
being woven, resulting in the silk fabric.
The
notoriety of the routes spread over several countries. The city of Rome was,
for a long period, the most reputable importer of silk. From 1550 the United
States and Europe started the process of technological development of silk (S)
manufacture. China is the largest manufacturer in the world and Brazil is among
the ten largest international producers, the state of Paraná being responsible
for more than 90% of the national production (SIRINGO, 2011).
Sericulture
comprises the production of cocoons, which then turn into silk yarns and
fabrics by the industries. Currently, sericulture is being developed with
emphasis on small farms with family labor. Due to its social aspect and being a
low environmental impact activity, the sericulture contributes to the
sustainable development of the country. This is extremely important because
organizations have to meet the demands of the sustainable development, whether
they are the requirements of laws, the consumers’ demand or the organization
itself.
Among
the sustainability aspects, the environmental issue is widely embedded in the
industrial context. As a result, it is common the adoption of environmental
techniques and tools that assist in this process. Among these techniques, in
recent years, the LCA is highlighted, beginning to be inserted in organizations
as a way to assist in the strategic planning and decision making.
LCA
assesses the environmental aspects and impacts of all stages involving the life
cycle of a product, beginning with the collection of raw materials from the
nature, and ending when all materials are returned to the environment, thereby
enabling a global vision of the product system.
This
study was implemented in the silk fabric due to three aspects. The first one
was the issue of accessibility in the company studied; the second one was that
the company has its completely natural manufacturing process, and the third
aspect was that by searching databases, no similar and / or close studies were
found, thus providing future studies in the textile sector.
Thus,
this paper aims to propose a scenario for applying the Life Cycle Assessment
technique in the production of silk fabric, starting from the cocoon. Next, the
topics covered, such as sericulture, Bombyx mori, silk fabric, life cycle
assessment, methodology, results and finally the conclusion, will be presented.
2 THEORETICAL REFERENTIAL
2.1 Sericulture in Paraná, Brazil
The rearing of silkworms, called
sericulture, is a viable activity in terms of the economy in several regions of
Brazil, because the climate favors the sericulture for up to ten months a year,
with a satisfactory income for the producer and making Paraná State responsible
for about 90% of cocoon production in Brazil (MENEGUIM et al., 2007; ZANATA et
al., 2009).
The
sericulture involves the cultivation of mulberry (Morus sp.), whose leaves feed
the caterpillars to obtain the green cocoons; the eggs, which will give birth
to the caterpillars, obtained by the industries and the creation of the
caterpillars by farmers. The species Bombyx mori L. (Lepidoptera: Bombycidae),
is the caterpillar of the silk-worm which feeds solely on mulberry, accounting
for 95% of the total production of silk used in the manufacture of different
types of fabrics (PÁDUA, 2005; BUSCH, 2010). In the last decade the State of
Paraná was highlighted as the biggest producer of green cocoons, and in the
2009/2010 crop, it accounted for 92.34% of national production (BUSCH et al.,
2010).
The
recognition of best silk in the world happened with the implementation of a
rigorous process of qualification, i.e. the larvae of silkworm are first
selected. In Brazil, the silk spinning industries (BRATAC S / A. and Fujimura
do Brazil) control the entire production cycle, where only the most perfect
cocoons enter the production line of the most expensive and sophisticated yarn.
This control is what differentiates Brazil from the world's largest producer,
China, in which each step is done by an intermediary (BUSCH, 2010).
The
agribusiness silk segment generates around 20,000 direct and indirect jobs,
occupying an average area of 2.55 ha / producer. The productivity of
caterpillars presents a performance index of kilos of cocoons / g of larvae of
3.14 kg / g. In the 2009/2010 harvest, the green cocoon production in Paraná
totaled 4,099 tons covered by an area of 10,067 ha. You can find the activity
in 145 municipalities in the state of Parana, which equals 76% of the state
production. Parana accounted for 56.88% of the volume exported, being the main
exporter of silk (BUSCH et al., 2010).
2.2 Bombyx mori
The
silk-worm, Bombyx mori L. (Lepidoptera: Bombycidae), has similar morphological
characteristics and mating ability, because it originates from the Bombyx mandarina
(Theophila mandarin). Its origin can be classified and identified as Japanese,
Chinese, European or Indian depending on geographical distribution. Variations
in color and egg shape, strength, size, color, number of generations / year,
number of moults of the caterpillar, shape, size, color and yield of cocoon are
also found, depending on its origin. The qualitative and quantitative
characteristics, characteristic of each breed or strains are searched in order
to improve the formation of hybrids (PORTO, 2004).
The
purpose of producing silkworm eggs is meeting the demand of the producers.
Usually a silk moth can lay between 400 and 500 small eggs, becoming small
larvae of approximately
|
|
|
(a) Silkworm making the
cocoon |
(b) Cocoon |
(c) Pupa or Chrysalis inside the cocoon |
Figure 1:
Production stage of the cocoon. Source: BRANCALHÃO, 2005 |
At the
end of this cycle, the cocoon is ruptured by the moth, with the secretion of an
alkaline liquid, softening its protein fibers. After that, it is able to
restart the cycle by means of reproduction which takes 4-5 days. The larval
stage consists of five ages in approximately 28 days, feeding exclusively on
mulberry leaves increasing their size by 70 times compared to the initial size.
It is in the last age that the larva, an adult, ceases feeding and starts the
process of protein secretion, making the cocoon, which protects it for the
metamorphosis which may take up to 3 days (FERNANDEZ et al., 2005; BRANCALHÃO,
2005; OLIVEIRA, 2011).
According
to Brancalhão (2005, p. 01), the insects "have complete metamorphosis (the
young insect is completely different from the adult one), going through four
distinct morphological stages during their life cycle", according to the
figures below:
a) Egg b)
Caterpillar or Lar c) Pupa or Chrysalis d) Moth
Figure 2: Morphological stages. Source: BRANCALHÃO, 2005 |
The
silkworm caterpillar requires special care in its creation, namely, control of
humidity and temperature, which have a key role in its health and productivity.
The temperature should be between 20 º to 30 º C and humidity ranging from 80%
in the 3rd to the 5th age, and from 60% to 70% when the caterpillar is building
the cocoon. Outside this range the caterpillar reduces or even stops eating.
There is also the prevention concerning the use of fungicides to prevent from
diseases, thus avoiding losses in the production of cocoons. The mulberry leaf
is the only food of the silkworm, for it is rich in protein, and for each stage
of the caterpillar, a different type of leaf is provided (considering the stage
of the mulberry trees - periods after pruning). To achieve success in quality
you need a good management of the mulberry trees because their production loses
in quality and quantity over the years, requiring constant investment, such as
organic and chemical fertilizer (PÁDUA, 2005).
As
explained in his book, Chataignier (2006) says that the silk comes from three
types of harvest: natural, cultivated and wild.
Natural, also called silk,
is an outcome of the process that we mentioned above. It is extremely soft and
when folded up it becomes wrinkled. This characteristic is the real test that
distinguishes it from the false silk coming from synthetic fibers that do not
get wrinkled.
Cultivated, spun by
silkworm raised in greenhouses and is produced by the Bombyx mori larvae, a species of white moth striped with black.
Wild, also natural,
however wild, producing fabrics like tussor fabrics or tussah and the wild
shantung that comes from silkworm that feeds on leaves of other trees that are
stronger, such as oak and hickory, especially in China and India. It is less
bright than cultivated silk and is used with other fibers. The wild fiber has a
brownish tinge, is thick and irregular, but it causes interesting effects in
the fabrics, both for clothing and for decoration (CHATAIGNIER, 2006).
However,
the most widely used one is the natural one known as silk (S). The mulberry
trees are the most accurate food to have a glow in the yarn and fabric. Based
on these assumptions, we must know the nature of this fiber since the birth of
the moth to the spinning and fabric processing.
2.3 Silk
fabric
Silk is
a soft and lightweight fiber, it resists to all kinds of climate and can also
be mixed with other types of threads, resulting in more resistant fabrics
(FERNANDEZ, 2005); besides, according to the report of the textile engineer
Ronaldo Salvador Vasquez, silk (S) has characteristics of brightness, touch and
texture of good performance for use; it absorbs sweat and moisture, it has low
abrasion resistance, and has extremely fine filaments. The fabrics have a soft
look, nice touch and gloss. It can be used in masculine and feminine hosiery,
blouses, skirts, decoration, among others. The silk fabric (S) is
hypoallergenic, antibacterial and thermodynamic. A very important factor is the
ease in the dyeing and in the various types of anilines which facilitates to
obtain the color.
It is a
natural animal-originated fiber, more resistant than other natural fibers. Its
resistance is compared to that of the synthetic fibers, nylon and polyester.
The fabrics made of silk have excellent finishing quality, are resistant to
crease and receptive to dyeing. From the silk thread it is possible to make
various kinds of fabrics such as organdy, crepe, satin, silk, chiffon, faille
and hattan, among others. Silk fabric is used on shirts, dresses, blouses,
ties, scarves, gloves, decorations, among others (PÁDUA, 2005; BRANCALHÃO,
2005; ORIGEM DOS TECIDOS, 2011).
A cocoon
can reach from 700 to
According
to SEAB (2011), after the purchase of silk cocoons by companies, the
classification process is carried out. In this process the cocoons are
classified as:
- First-quality/good
cocoons (these are presented clean, perfect in shape, without smudging and with
chrysalis alive, tolerating only small smudges/stains/patches);
- Second-quality/pointed
cocoons (they are defective, with larger patches and irregularities in the
shape and skin caused by diseases and inadequate management and / or climatic
factors);
- Double
cocoons (with larger size, poorly woven and consisting of two or more pupae);
- Rejects
(flabby, wrinkled and sticky cocoons, with deep stains, misshapen, and stuck
with large defects from the woods).
-
Figure 3: Classified cocoons. Source: SEAB, 2011 |
The
industrialization of the silk thread consists of the following processes:
drying and storage, cleaning and cooking, spinning and twisting. The drying of
the pods is performed to avoid the pod chrysalis to break out; it retains the
commercial value and keeps the fibers in the yarn in good quality. Drying has a
variation of up to 5 scales, a period lasting 6-7 hours, starting with a
temperature between 125 º to 130 º C and ending between 40 ° to 50 ° C. Once
dry, the pods must be stored for at least two weeks to complete the
stabilization of sericin (SEAB, 2011).
a) Front image b) Side image
Figure 4: Cocoons dryer. Source: SEAB, 2011 |
To
perform the cleaning, the cocoons are put into a machine to remove the anafaia
(silk that the larva spins to form the cocoon). Then the cocoons are
transported and placed inside the automatic cooker for unraveling. Cocoons are
soaked for about 20 minutes in hot water to loosen the sericin to better loosen
the fibers, giving good conditions for the spinning process (SEAB, 2011).
a)
Cleaner to remove the coarse silk yarn spun b) Cocoons way out of the
"shaken" cooker
Figure 5: Cocoons
cleaning and cooking. Source: SEAB, 2011 |
As a
result, the cocoons go through automatic spinners that unwind the thread and
form the silk thread. The thickness of the thread takes place in accordance with
the number of cocoons used, for example, Denier 21 = 06 cocoons, Denier 27 = 8
cocoons, Denier 31 = 9 cocoons, Denier 42 = 12 cocoons. After that, the unwound
wires are passed onto another reel to form the skeins, and finally, the threads
are twisted (SEAB, 2011).
2.4 Life Cycle Assessment
Every
product causes some kind of impact on nature. These impacts according to Robles
Junior and Bonelli (2006), do not begin in the post-consumption stage but at
the time the materials are extracted from their sources in nature and ends with
the final output in the environment, as pollution, waste and emissions. The
effect on the environment occurs in all stages of processing, production,
packaging and use.
The
LCA is then a tool used to quantify and
interpret environmental flows to and from the environment, involving the
capture, validation, evaluation, verification and interpretation of
environmental data including the purchase of raw materials, manufacturing,
transportation, use, maintenance and final disposal (ATHENA SUSTAINABLE
MATERIALS INSTITUTE, 2009).
Thus,
LCA evaluates the environmental aspects and impacts caused by the product
throughout its life cycle including, in accordance with ISO 14040 (2009), four
phases: purpose and scope definition, inventory analysis, impact assessment and
interpretation.
According
to Guinée (2001) in the phase of purpose and scope definition, the initial
choices are made, determining the work plan of the LCA, and the main
characteristics of the study are established. Therefore, in this period of the
study, it should be defined the function of the system studied, the functional
unit, the process units and system boundaries (PEREIRA, 2008). Each of these
items is defined by ABNT (2009) as:
- Product
System: Set of processing units, connected materially and energetically, which
performs one or more defined functions. The function of the system is the
intended product use;
- Functional
unit: quantified performance of a product system for use as a reference unit in
a life cycle evaluation study;
- Process
units: Lower portion of a product system for which data are collected when a
life cycle assessment is carried out;
- System
Boundaries: Interface between a product system and the environment or other
product systems.
In practice, the scope should be delimited through the
system boundaries, which separate the studied system from the environment and
other product systems (SANTOS, 2002). Thus, the system is subdivided into a
number of process units.
In the phase
of the Life Cycle Inventory Assessment (LCIA) all inputs and outputs of each
process unit are identified in order to assess which are most significant for
modeling the data (COSTA, 2007). Chehebe (1997) reports that at this stage,
care must be taken, such as: the design of specific flow charts that show all
the process units, including the interrelations between them; and the detailed
description of each process unit and the list of data categories associated
with each one of them.
Subsequently,
the data collected are grouped considering the environmental loads or the items
to be evaluated, and in the functional unit. Thus, the product of the life
cycle inventory is a list containing the volume of consumed energy, materials
and quantities of pollutants emitted to the environment (PEREIRA, 2008). It all
results in the quantification of environmental aspects associated with the life
cycle of the product.
In the
next phase of the LCA, the impact assessment, inventory data are associated
with specific environmental impacts, where the choice of impacts evaluated and
methodologies used and the level of details depends on the purpose and scope of
the study (ABNT, 2009, p.7). UNEP (2003) presents the impact categories in
which the inventory data can be sorted, separating them into input and output categories,
relating to each of them the potential indicators generated. These categories
are shown in Table 1.
Table 1:
Examples of Life Cycle Impact categories
Impact
categories |
Possible
indicator |
Categories related to Entry |
|
Extraction of abiotic resources |
Lack of resources |
Extraction of biotic resources |
Lack of resources, considering the replacement rate |
Categories
Related output |
|
Climate change |
Kg of
CO2 as a
unit of equivalence
for the Global
Warming Potential |
Stratospheric
ozone depletion |
Kg of CFC-11 as a unit of equivalency to the potential for ozone depletion |
Human toxicity |
Potential toxicity human |
Ecotoxicity |
Potential for Eco-toxicity |
Formation
of photo-oxidants |
Kg of
ethylene as a
unit of equivalence
for potential photochemical ozone creation |
Acidification |
Release of H + as a unit of equivalence for
the acidification
potential |
Nitrification |
Total macro-nutrients as the unit of equivalence for potential Nitrification |
Source:
UNEP, 2003 |
In the
interpretation phase according to ISO 14040 "the interpretation is the
phase of LCA where the findings of the inventory analysis and impact assessment
are combined, consistently with the purpose and scope defined in order to reach
conclusions and recommendations" (ABNT, 2009, p.7).
The
findings of the study are confronted with the purpose and scope of the study in
order to analyze the quality of the data and explain the limitations of the
study carried out (COSTA, 2007). Thus, the findings of this interpretation can
become useful conclusions and recommendations for managers, consistently with
the purpose and scope of the study (ABNT, 2009).
According
to Valt (2004) the conclusions reached after reviewing the results allow the
identification of critical points in the lifecycle of the product that need
improvement, allowing the implementation of production strategies, such as
replacement and recovery of materials and redesign or replacement of processes,
aimed at environmental preservation.
Thus the
main applications of LCA according to Guinée (2001) are: to analyze the origins
of the problems related to a particular product; allow improvements by
comparing variants of a particular product; promote the development of new
products; enable the choice from a range of comparable products.
Thus the
LCA provides information that can be used to benefit the organization.
3
METHODOLOGY
This
research is classified as applied, exploratory, qualitative, literature and a
case study. The methodology followed in the study was established by ISO
14040:2009, which establishes principles and framework for an LCA study.
As this
study deals with the proposal of a scenario for application of LCA in the
production of silk, it was considered the first step described in ISO quoted
above, defining the purpose and scope.
The data
required for the study were obtained by formal interview, firstly identifying
process units forming part of the system.
To
construct the scenario, the limits considered for the system had as a starting
point the wiring step within the company, in which all process units of the
system were identified and as a final limit the step of finishing the fabric,
where you get the finished product and not considering the later stages of
dyeing, distribution, processing, use, disposal, among others.
The data
processing and modeling were carried out with the support of the software
system Umberto v 5.6 academic.
4 RESULTS
As
presented in the review and reported by Costa (2007) in preparation of the life
cycle inventory all inputs and outputs of each process unit are identified,
thus identifying which are most significant for modeling the data. Moreover,
according to Chehebe (1997) one of the precautions to be taken is the
construction of specific flow charts that show all the process units, including
the interrelations between them.
Thus,
from the data collected a flowchart was prepared containing the processes
considered. The picture obtained for the system can be seen in Figure 6. For
the construction of this scenario the inputs and outputs related to the process
units were considered: spinning, drying, twisting, weaving and finishing.
Figure 6: Scenario of the production of woven silk. Source: survey data, 2011 |
This
scenario can be used as support for the later stage of the
LCA, the development of life cycle inventory for the silk
fabric. It is essentially the collection of the data and the objective is
to perform mass and energy balances to quantify all the materials and energy
inputs, as well as wastes and emissions from the system that cause the
environmental burdens (BENEDETTO, KLEMES, 2009). Inputs are raw materials,
energies, water, etc. Outputs are the products and co-products, emission to
air, water and soil, and wastes (ROY et al., 2009).
Since,
for the collection of data for each processing unit can be considered a
form used, which are quantified all inputs and
outputs. A model for data collection is presented in
Table 2.
Table
2 - Form for data
collection.
Local: |
||||
Process/Activity: |
||||
Product: |
Amount: |
Date: |
||
INPUTS (raw materials, natural
resources) |
|
OUTPUTS (atmospheric emissions, waste
water, solid
waste) |
||
Material |
Amount |
|
Material |
Amount |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
BALANCE OF POWER (consumption): |
||||
Type of transport used: |
||||
Distance traveled to the next step of the process: |
||||
Comments: |
Source: Prado, 2007
An
example of a functional unit showed in Table 2 that can be adopted for a study
of LCA is of 1Kg of cocoons to obtain the finished fabric.
After
the inventory phase, occurs the impact assessment in LCA. It is consists of the
following elements: classification, characterization, normalization and
valuation (Roy et al., 2009).The phase is based on the aggregation of the
environmental impacts quantified in the inventory analysis into a limited set
of recognizable impact categories (e.g. climate change, global warming, ozone
depletion, acidification, eutrophication) (Benedetto and Klemes, 2009).
And the
last stage purpose of an LCA is to draw conclusions that can support a decision
or can provide a readily understandable result of an LCA (ROY et al., 2009).
Interpretation is a procedure to evaluate the information from the inventory
analysis and impact assessment of the system and to propose conclusions from
all of the previous results of the study (BENEDETTO; KLEMES, 2009).
5 CONCLUSIONS
Considering
the study above on the activity of sericulture, silkworm and LCA, a prominent
point is the development of production of silk, which involves the social
aspect and low environmental impact, as well as the contribution for an
industrial system that involves sustainable development. The fulfillment of
legal requirements, the consumers’ demand and the organization that the
production itself requires are of great importance.
Tools
and techniques related to the environment assist production processes
associated with the aid of designed strategies, business management and
promoting green innovations (PIEKARSKI et al., 2013) although LCA application.
Thus,
this paper presents a scenario model for the evaluation of the LCA for the silk
fabric. Based on this scenario the fulfillment of the later stages is possible,
as outlined in ISO 14040, thus obtaining the inventory of LCA for the silk
fabric, as well as its evaluation.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
To
Fundação Araucaria and CAPES for the
financial support, and the company that received us and
collaborated with the accomplishment of this research.
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